June 29, 2012

A Complete Guide to Fix the Flickering or Dimming Backlight of logitech Z 5500 D Control POD


[Update :- This Particular item is discontinued by Logitech and instead they replaced it with a new speaker set named Z906. However there were more than 100,000s of people who had already owned the previous Z-5500 Speaker system, which was known as "Best-Bang-For-Buck" during that time.]

Before attempt :-
Attempting to do this work will void any kind of WARRANTY policies left on your Product. Please do it at your own RISK and RESPONSIBILITIES.

[However, in my case the product was still under warranty period (Since 3 months i bought it) but i am left with no choice except this work-around]
. . . .

Ok first things first.

This project requires two Important aspects i.e enough patience and a very good self Control :P
However as its a time consuming process.., it took me around 3 to 4 hours to get the job done...

Also you must possess some knowledge and Experience in basic soldering & as in addition, a little bit of understanding & logical thinking... :)

Ok enough B.S. Lets get started...

A - Getting started :-


You will need Six basic Stuffs in order to complete this mod..
1 - A L-N-key

2 - A Philps Star Screw Driver

3 - A Digital or Analogue Multimeter

4 - SMD type LED's (White Preferred) or A circuit Board of a spare cell phone to pick the correct type SMD LED which did i in my case(Optional) 
[|- LED Model / Part No : 0x0020 or HL-PSC-2012H256W (Thanks to AudioDoc@OCN) ]

5-A Point Type low Watt Soldering Iron [≤ 30W is Recommended]

6- A Resin Based Solder [Note: When using non-resin based solder, be sure to apply a solder paste to the part before applying the solder]

Ok , Now i assume you have got all the above mentioned items ready with you. So lets get started.


B - Getting new/old LED's to Replace :-

The trick i used was screwing one of my old cell phone in order to get the LED's as even these are miniature one's. However its always up to you on how to get it. May be you can ask with some mobile technicians..
You will need a total of Six LED's and at least two or three as back up, in case if you kills one or two during the process. So a total of eight or more is recommended. 


The Red-Box Marks are the One we were looking for. yeah those small tiny peanut's... just pluck them with your soldering iron
-Use the soldering iron on either sides of an LED's terminal's to release it from the Circuit Board.

The LED's i gained emits perfect white light. So in this guide i have included an easy step to transform it in to BLUE which you will find at the bottom of this guide. But a default preferred color LED is highly recommended again.

[Caution:- Applying too much heat or holding the soldering iron for a long time near the LED will surely damage it]

Ok you have some new LED's.
Lets have a closer look at them.....


My cam struggled a bit to get focused on these tiny nuts i must say..
Ok, now its time to move to the next step...


C -Multimeter Settings :-

Now its time to identify the polarity of new gained LED's as it will glow only in one respective orientation or polarity as LED's are Polarized.
We will seek the help of a multimeter to identify it. Keep the multimeter settings in Ohms Ω [ 200 / 1000 / 2000 Ω].
May be the below sample preview would help you..



Now check the LED's with the multimeter as shown below. As it is polarized, remember to interchange the polarities and check until it glows.

- And please do make a note/mark on the correct polarities as there is a great chance of confusions that may arise at a later stage.
- This is important step because a single LED soldered incorrectly might put your whole work in to Dust Bin with out doubt.


Well keep the above noted info safe.. Lets now move on to the Control POD of Logitech Z-5500.


D- Disassembling the Logitech Z5500 Control POD :-

Firstly, make use of the L-N-key to remove the stand of the control POD.



Secondly , remove the volume knob as it would block the front cover if not done so. At first you will have to use some force to pull (i.e Perpendicular to the body) the Knob as it should be glued there.

[Caution :- Please do not tilt too much while removing the volume-knob as it can cause severe damage to the unit.]


Thirdly, in order to open the black-case, the four black screws in the back must be un-tightened (or removed).

Now use a slim type (Flat) screw driver to separate the POD's Black & Silver casings a part as shown below..

[Caution :- You have a very good chance to leave so many scratches there if you hurry. So, be patient & take your time.]


Use the Flat screw driver again or any flat material to release its lock completely


Now it must look something like below what you see ... Alright!



Now lets get in to the real thing. The pic shown below represents the PCB of the LCD panel.


UN-tighten those four screws and tilt the black metal lock [Shown in Red box] in the position so that the Circuit-board and display gets separated..


That means , it should look something like what is shown below ...


Now carefully separate the LCD panel then the "light spread glass sheet" followed by it. You need to apply a little bit pressure here to remove the glass sheet as it is glued on the board. But don't break it by using too much pleasure.


Now you might be wondering about the polarity of these tiny LED's on the board. Do not worry, here below is the layout of its sign indications..


Now record these sign notes on your mind.. or write it somewhere where u can easily interact.


I recommend you folks to use this particular position to solder as you don't need to remove the black casing for doing it, if you do in this method .


However its according to your convenience though, removing the black case is not advisable as it may cut/separate  the hidden wires behind the Master PCB which will make it even WORSE.


Now get the LED's and put them on to the board matching the correct polarity.

[ Please be VERY ACCURATE at this point, as a single LED soldered (out of six) in an unmatched polarity or improperly to the PCB will result all your work in total vain as even a single LED wont light UP, when you power-up the POD !!
(Please Note: Light up here in the sense, only when the control POD is powered and switched on. But not with the multimeter) ]

I faced some difficulties to keep the LED's seated on the board while soldering, as it frequently tends to jump out of the board when it sees the hot solder Iron rod coming to it ....

So i had to use some technique i.e holding the LED with another screw driver and doing the job as shown below.

After soldering each LED, test them up using the multimeter in order to confirm whether its in good contact with the board's circuit or not.
- And if the connection is perfect then it won't Light Up..
- As i mentioned before , do remember to apply a little bit of soldering paste on to the board if u are on non-resin based solder's.



Ok !! Now if you are completed with your project,
then its time to watch your Good Work......


I am Sure , you will appreciate yourselves when you see these nuts lights up.

A closer look at it...



E- Transforming Gained LED's White Color to Blue:-  [Optional]

This step is completely Optional, depending up on the LED's Default color and user's specific interest on the color.

The LED's which i had emits perfect white light as it was from the Mobile Phone. which i am not satisfied with. So i thought of a simple way to transform its emitted color to a Cool Blue color.

The idea was as simple that's just to color coat the LED's with a permanent Blue-Ink marker


[Please Note:- The transformed color may get paled eventually due to heat produced by the LED's. So getting native Blue-Color LED's are highly recommended]

After transformation it should look something like this below ....


Now you might be wondering how the transformed LED's would light Up..

Its always as expected or sometimes even better.....,


Its Good! Isn't It ?!


F- Assembling the LCD kit back in position:-


Here the spread sheet goes first in to the board. Press it a lil bit harder so that it will hold good on the default factory glue.
Next the Black LCD block followed by it.
- Make Sure to wipe of any dirt or dust on the glass before you put the LCD back on it as there is a great chance that the dust might block the circuit contact to the liquid crystals which will result in incomplete display.


Once the above step is complete, tighten the panel by positioning back the black metal teeth which is shown in red BOX.
- Remember insufficient tightening will cause some jumbled characters on the screen. So be careful.


While doing the job, please place it on a soft surface or cloth so that the PANEL wont get damaged or scratched so easily.

Ok if everything is done correctly, then you can hope for good.


| Time to Watch the RESULTS |

Now here are the result of your hard efforts....

Iam Sure , you will be PROUD once you see it....

22newalteredlookfar.jpg  23newalteredlooknightmo.jpg

24newalteredlookclose.jpg  25newalteredlooknormalv.jpg

Guess, this is how it should illuminate according to the One showed on the Logitech Z-5500's Box...


Safety Tip :- Try shutting down the Power Button Behind the Sub-Woofer when the unit is not used for a long period as it reduces the Power Consumption & the amount of heat generated inside the Control POD.

Bonus Tips [On Control POD, Hold Time = 5 Sec from Roman I to III] :-
I - Hold the buttons "input" +"effect" to toggle the Diagnostic mode on & off. (Try in Standby Mode)
II - Hold the buttons "input" + "settings" to display the firmware version as well as resetting the firmware. (Try in Standby Mode)
III - Hold the buttons "input" + "effect" + "settings" + "mute" to toggle skin 2 on & off. (Try in Standby Mode)

IV - Hold Mute then turn right the volume knob to add Extra +11 Volume boost at the beginning instead of at end (Try when the Unit is On)

[ Tags:- z5500 lcd problem or z-5500 lcd problem or z 5500 lcd problem or Project or Mod or Repair or Service for the Fading or Dying LED of Z-5500 or Z5500 or Control POD or Digital Control Center or Center]

Good Luck


  1. perfect!!! thank´s fot this great picture-story!!

  2. This comment has been removed by the author.

    1. what cell phone you used ????
      i' ve the same problem....

  3. @ Sotos..
    It was Nokia-2100. It had the exact same LED's that the Pod Has!

    1. Thank's J.M.D!!! I will try to fix it....

  4. I have a question. I removed the leds from the pod and tested them with my multimedia and the LED worked/it lighted up! Does this mean that my leds are not broken?

    1. @MasterX : If all the 6 LED's lights up, then probably its your POD itself.

  5. After i changed all the LED's and re-asambled the POD.....the display is a little faded....what is the problem ?

    1. @Anony : The bundle[Glass spread sheet + PCB + LCD] is not pressed with enough pressure or the alignment between them is wrong or your new LED's emits too bright lights

  6. I think, there is one thing you have not mentioned that " in order to open the case, the four black screws in the back must be un-tighten (or remove) before the flat driver to insert into the slots on the POD's side to open it". Without this instruction, someone may broken the POD's case if force too hard.

    1. HaHa! I thought its a common sense thing as the screws are easily visible. Okay Good Point anyways. Will add it on the blog. Thanks

  7. hello my friend i have a cuestion, do you know where is the +18v power regulator, i have no problems with the leds but the letters fade out and now i can watch anything on the screem

  8. The correct LED's for the Control Pod of the Z-5500 are HL-PSC-2012H256W. These are special full color LED's for the backlighting of Monochroom Displays.

    1. Thanks . Have added and updated on the blog.

  9. Very well done. I can't wait to start this project.

  10. Fantastic manual, it allowed me to repair the backlight of the display of my precious Z5500!

    Let's me share some more info to help other who experience this issue:

    I bought the replacement LEDs on ebay. The size you need is 0805 (=SMD2012) which are pretty standard and have a size of about 1x2mm. You need white LEDs (the original ones are also white) with a light intensity of ~450mcd. Because they are so small it's not easy to solder them on the print. I honestly couldn't do it, so I found some help from someone working in the hardware department of our company for that part. The 6 LEDs are in parallel, so even when you don't manage to get them all soldered just right the ones that are will light up. Initially 4 out of 6 lighted up and I had to do some extra soldering to get the remaining 2 ones make good contact with the print, but ones that was done they all lighted up :)

    My Z5500 pod is again fully functioning now :D

    1. I am glad it helped you. Good to hear that your POD is back to light ... ;)

  11. My pod lights are dead too but from time to time they light up for a few minutes and then go dark again.
    Someone told me that the LED's are ok when he measured them and the problem might lie somewhere else...
    Any idea?

  12. Is there a fix for faded text on the screen? The screen looks like it lights up fine, but the text has faded almost completely, like it has 0 contrast. I found your thread on Overclock and see 3ug3n did mention something along the same line. I've looked up and down for a direct answer, but no luck. Just looking for a solid answer as to what is causing this so I can try to get it fixed! Thanks!

  13. Hi
    I'm also looking for a fix for faded text. I have the same problem. My leds works but the text is gone.

    1. I found this cheap replacement part from a cheap Chinese parts website from another Z-5500 thread. It's the same display, but inverse. It has new LEDs on it as well so you won't have to solder the LEDs, just the connector. I got it in the mail today and am thinking about making a video about replacing the old one.

    2. that still hasn't helped with the blank Display problem... i have just replaced my with the inverted LCD and its still blank/no text being displayed - unit works fine apart from no display(backlight works).

    3. I've got the same problem - LED's light up ok, I can see the text for some time but then it fades out

    4. Same problem here... Had to get the leds fixed by logitech through warranty back in the day (2010) and it has since then worked flawlessly, but now I just moved to a new location and the display contrast completely failed the second time I turned it on. It comes back for like one second sometimes, and it even displays glitched characters and numbers randomly now... I hope to find a solution because It otherwise works really well and still sounds good.

    5. i have the same issue (back light works but text fades away soon after switching mains on) is there a way to solve this?

    6. Guys I am sorry that I couldn't help you on the display text fading problem as I never faced such till today , hence can't comment on that.
      As I already mentioned in the guide, most of the heating IC's were protected with a heat sink and that could be one of the reason mine is still alive. Guess you need to search more on the internet for your fading text problem. Thanks.

  14. Awesome mate ! Just realised that my LEDs start to die, now I replaced the old ones with new red LEDs and it's amazing! Thanks a lot

    1. Thanks Mate as always. Good luck with your Z5500 for another 100 years.

  15. Thanks a mil@! this solved my irritation for several years in just 2 hours. bought some white smds on aliexpress and boy oh boy the screen is crisp as day 1

  16. I was able to change led thank you very much

  17. hy , any chance to update photos ? are no longer valid . Thanks

  18. I would also need the pictures back for the guide. Could you be so kind to update them?
    Without the pictures I'm hesitant to try to fix it myself :(